Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille

I’m figuring it will come as no surprise to anyone who’s been following my blog so far that I’m a huge fan of vanilla fragrances. In fact, a large portion of my favourite fragrances are vanilla based… actually, it might be the majority of them! However, there are a few that are specific stand out vanilla fragrances for me and they are amongst my prize possessions. The heady warmth and creaminess from a true vanilla fragrance is something to behold. It’s intoxicating, comforting and delicious all at the same time. Whatsmore, I can bask in the beauty of these fragrances for hours and never get tired of them – unlike the inevitable gastronomic regret I’ll often have after indulging in any other sweet treat so such a degree!

I previously reviewed the masterful creation which is Guerlain’s Spirituese Double Vanille and it was my love of SDV which led me to discover Un Bois Vanille. This 2003 creation by the perfume house, Serge Lutens, is often compared to SDV and doesn’t readily pale in comparison. It’s not to say they are clones by any means. To me, SDV is generally more refined, deeper and creamier than Un Bois Vanille which has sharper and more peppery characteristics in the opening. The real similarities appear hours later in the in the drydown when both leave a powdered chocolate skinscent in their wake. Overall, I think that Un Bois Vanille would be similar enough to calm cravings for SDV when you want to ‘splash’ around an cheaper alternative (not that Un Bois Vanille is cheap by any means but it is less than ½ the price of SDV). Personally, I think it’s a fantastic twist of fate to have stumbled across another of these decadent vanilla creations with which I’ve become so obsessed with.

I find Un bois vanilla to be an absolute delight to the senses. Imagine, if you will, a rich combination of vanilla, coffee, chocolate, incense, resin, smoke, spice, coconut and honey. This sweet experience is thoroughly addictive. The dessert-like qualities are almost enough to satiate any sugar craving you may have but I don’t find it cloying or overpowering at all. For me, it excites the senses. I’m careful to stress that this fragrances suits ‘my’ tastes though as there seems to be quite a lot of contradictory reviews online… As always, personal tastes are a very subjective thing and skin chemistry plays a large part as well. Some people just find this too overpowering and too sweet. Others find it too complex and almost confusing. It’s a good example of why you really need to try and sample fragrances whenever you have the opportunity. I’d dare say that if you’re a die-hard fan of vanilla fragrances like I am, you’d be enchanted by this scent though. It’s a fantastic example of how masterful blending and quality ingredients can create pure olfactory magic.

Hermes Elixir des Merveilles

Sometimes it can be difficult to put my finger on the right scent for my mood or state of mind. This morning I wanted something warm but fresh and invigorating… the scent I sought needed to be cosy and comforting but bright and happy as well, as if to take me away to somewhere relaxing and chilled out. It occurred to me I had the perfect scent for this occasion and it’s one I’ve barely used since buying it many months ago… Today, it just had to be Elixir des Merveilles by Hermes.

Elixir des Merveilles is a flanker (or sister fragrance) to Eau des Merveilles which was released in 2004. Elixir des Merveilles was released a couple of years later in 2006. These fragrances are Oriental Fougere’s which essentially classes them as fresh and herbaceous. Fougere perfume is typically more common amongst men’s fragrances but Elixir des Merveilles is marketed as a women’s line although this is debatable among the perfume community. Many, including myself, believe it’s has some very masculine qualities although I also believe those qualities add to its allure immensely. The fragrance notes include peru balsam, vanilla sugar, amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli, Siam resin, caramel, oak, incense, orange peel and cedar.

This one is different and we all know how much I like ‘different’! After having both Eau des and Elixir des Merveilles pop up on my fragrance radar many times, I decided to buy a couple of samples to test them out. I eagerly awaited the arrival of my samples because the reviews on these fragrances, particularly Eau des Merveilles, sounded rather bizarre… A very common interpretation of the fragrance was that it reminded people of the beach, particularly how they might smell after having spent a day at the beach! I guess this is probably a combination of fragranced body products, sunscreens, salt and sweat! So the samples arrive and I dab some Eau des Merveilles on and, low and behold, it DOES smell like the beach! It starts very warm and musky but with a strong dose of fresh orange. The orange dissipates very quickly though and then this oceanic smell starts to emerge. It’s warm, salty, aquatic and sort of sweet but the strangest thing is that, to me, it really did smell like I’d spent a day at the beach! Although it’s not mentioned as a note, there are many reviewers wondering whether ambergris (or the synthetic version at least) is included in this fragrance. That would certainly explain the marine, animalic, salty and sweet nuances in Eau des Merveilles. Ofcourse this raises a bit of a quandary… as enchanting as this atmospheric fragrance is, I’m not really sure I want to step out of the shower, spray this on and smell ‘unwashed’!

Enter, Elixir des Merveilles which proves to be a softer, and more wearable, version in my opinion. In the Elixir, I find that the ‘beachy’ smell is still there but is much more mellow allowing the prettier notes to step forward. I can pick up the patchouli, caramel, orange peel and incense and its truly beautiful. I’m recognising something very familiar in this fragrance and, as it evolves, I find it more and more endearing. Actually it’s reminiscent of a men’s aftershave I’ve lusted over in the past (I wish I could identify which one!) and there’s nothing like the power of the right aftershave to make me lose all self-control! The fragrance is very deep and resinous and the longevity is fantastic. I’ve been wearing this for almost 9hrs now and I can still easily smell it as I move. Whatsmore, it has served its purpose beautifully as each time I inhale this magical potion, it brings a smile to my face and reminds me of lazy days at the beach breathing in all the magical aroma’s that waft across the warm sand.

So as our Aussie winter continues, perhaps seize an opportunity to try this jewel out the next time you pass a perfume counter… it just might give you a moment of beachy bliss too!